Cappadocia: Our Romantic Getaway
The day I met Güven in a mall in Cleveland, I went to Barnes and Noble and began researching Turkey. When he mentioned that is where he is from in our short introduction, I realized I knew absolutely nothing about that country. As a college educated and (what I considered) well traveled human, I was excited to learn his language, culture, and land.
I remember seeing photos of 100+ hot air balloons over a rugged landscape with the sun rising and thinking what in the world?! That day, I couldn’t have conceived the fact that 9 years later, I would be standing inside one of those hot air balloons experiencing the start of a new day over such a mysterious and ancient land married to that guy I met in a mall in Cleveland that one random day at work.
This was our first kid free vacation as a couple in 5 years. Sure, we’ve done a lot of traveling in those 5 years but it has always been with kids (aka not a vacation from normal life) or for work (still great memories but again, not vacation).
Why did we choose Cappadocia?
This land is ancient. It has been home to humans for thousands of years and spans multiple empires. It was a destination along the Silk Road and is home to the church of St. John the Baptist!
I was never that big into history because my comprehension has always been a huge obstacle in my life. But as I get to live and travel on this land in Turkey, it’s easy to feel more curious about the people who came before me.
Cappadocia is listed as a United Nations World Heritage Site. 60 Million years ago, two large volcanos erupted violently. Over time, wind and water erosion sculpted the landscape forming the pinnacles and peaks known as ‘fairy chimneys’ which makes this land feel magical.
Where we stayed:
We booked a beautifully designed room at Serinn House in Ürgüp. It is along the mountain caves overlooking the town of Göreme National Park. The owner, Eren, was such a lovely host offering the best of Turkish hospitality. Serinn House has only five guest rooms, individually designed by Turkish architect Rifat Ergor. Our first night was a Tuesday and the hotel was nearly empty. I remember experiencing such a profound silence while inside our cave room. It was an overwhelming silence. I think I liked it but it took me some time to relax inside of it. It was unlike anything I had experienced before.
Day 1
Hot Air Balloon Ride:
We booked our hot air balloon for our first morning in Cappadocia because if the weather isn’t cooperative, the event could be delayed by an entire day for safe floating conditions. For us, this event was important to experience having never been floating in the sky before so be booked it for the first possible morning!
We booked with Royal Balloon. They have almost 900 google reviews with a 4.7 rating. For me, safety and the best experience were motivating factors for that decision, although there are soooo many other companies and options available too. Our guide spoke multiple languages, had witty commentary, was knowledgable about the land, and was an expert balloon pilot. Our weather was perfect for a slow and exploratorive trip through the Göreme National Park. We hovered between rock formations in Lover’s Valley and photobombed influencers and couple’s photoshoots. It was calm and exciting.
Biking Lover’s Valley:
We rented bikes in the downtown area of Göreme. There are many options along the main strip - I don’t remember our specific company we rented from. Unknowingly, we chose a tough route to the top of Lover’s Valley having to bike all the way up to the top of the cliffs. It was as exhausting as it sounds especially having not ridden a bicycle in over a year if not longer! The views from the top were similar to our hot air balloon experience so if we had the chance to do it again, we would choose to ride inside the valley through the phallic shaped formations to have a new view and perspective.
Dinner:
Ziggy’s Cafe
Seeking a beautiful and chill atmosphere with delicious fresh food, we went to Ziggy’s Cafe which was walking distance from our hotel. We shared a bottle of wine, appetizers and dessert over the course of 2 hours sharing and reliving the events of the day. It was an intimate evening setting - the perfect end to an eventful day. The evening walk home was chilly but I brought a wool blanket with me as a shawl and loved seeing the night sky shine so bright.
Day 2
Derinkuyu Underground City:
40 min. drive south from our Hotel
This multi-level underground city was carved out of the soft volcanic rock to house up to 20,000 humans + their livestock and food stores during the Byzantine and Arab wars. Later, Christians took refuge in this city hiding from Mongolian incursions in the 14th century.
Per wiki, It extends around 280 feet (80 meters) into the earth which feels claustrophobic if you ask me but was absolutely fascinating to experience firsthand.
The Greeks were the last population to live in Derinkuyu but left in 1923 during the population exchange of Greece and Turkey. If you’ve never heard about that exchange, basically it was a mutual agreement based on religion (not language or ethnicity) to restore peace in the land. Christian’s went to Greece and Muslims came to Turkey and the underground tunnel network and cities were abandoned.
They were rediscovered in 1963 during a home renovation project and have been open to the public since 1969. Güven remembers a trip with his Mom there as a child running and playing in the underground city!
Ihlara Valley:
40 min. drive southwest from Derinkuyu
This canyon was formed by the Melendiz river in prehistoric times. It is 500ish feet deep (150 meters) and 10 miles long (15 kilometers). Byzantine monks carved houses and churches in the stone in this giant valley to hide from the Roman Empire.
There was a beautiful floating restaurant in the (now) tiny river where we enjoyed the kebab that this central region of Anatolia is known for: testi kebab.
Testi Kebab:
Lamb meat and vegetables placed in a clay jug.
Sealed shut with fresh bread.
Cooked in coals in a clay oven in the earth.
Simmers for hours.
They open the clay jug in front of you.
Pour it into an iron plate.
It is soooooo hot. I did totally burn my mouth multiple times but it was as delicious as it sounds too.
Dinner:
Prokopi Restaurant
On our way to Ziggy’s for dinner the night before, I remembered passing a beautiful restaurant I wanted to return to named Prokopi. We enjoyed a chilly, candlelit dinner outside, and dessert inside by the fireplace. It was very busy, next time we will make reservations before arriving for sure.
As this vacation has come to an end, and this year is wrapping up, I sit here with so much joy and love in my heart. The things I am doing, the people I am with, the places I am going, I am treasuring this season of my life. It feels special that I get to share it with people I really love.
Hope you’re sharing joy with loved ones these days too.
Warmly,
xx Allie
About Together Textiles:
Minimal, sustainable, and versatile, Together Textiles designs robes and towels traditionally hand-spun on looms one at a time in Turkey using the same techniques passed down four generations. Purchasing from Together Textiles means you are supporting an ancient craft, along with a budding family of five who loves connecting with the local community. Follow the family business journey on Instagram @togethertextiles.
Sources:
https://www.serinnhouse.com
https://tr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Derinkuyu
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cappadocia
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ihlara_valley